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A closer look at the Zorki 4 and the Zorki 4K
Zorki 4 and 4Kember 2011     100

All over the internet these two cameras, both by Zorki, are referred too as identical apart from the lever winder on the Zorki 4K...well that's not true.

From a visual point of view this may appear to be the case but if you want to replace parts from one to the other you're in for a big surprise. In reality these two cameras don't share too many common parts. What I'm going to do here is show the two side by side. Yes there are parts that you can exchange but you may find this article useful before you rush off to ebay for a 'spares or repair' camera, only to find the part you want is very different...or not even used! s

In addition the disassembly of the two is also different, so care and a bit of insight needs to be taken with both!

When buying online study the photos very carefully...then study them again! I've put tips below to help you spot the nightmares you may unwittingly buy (and haven't we all?) If the have-a-go brigade have been in there you may be wise to leave them alone. But that of course, is just in my opinion.

Before we start, a couple of things:

1. The Zorki 4 & 4K have no cross head screws. If you see one it's a bodge.

2. Slotted screw heads need good screwdrivers, ones that cost more than $1 (£1)

3. Damaged screw slots are only caused by people who don't know what they are doing. A professional service or repair will leave little evidence (a little is to be expected.)

ld in the US, UK and Worldwide since 2004      


Starting on the outside:




Top Zorki 4 That didn't take long!
The Top plates are drilled differently. The Zorki 4 has no screw hole at 'A'. It has 3 screws below the film advance winder.

The speed dial and flash ring are the same.


Top Zorki 4K The Zorki 4K has a screw at  'A'.
When buying take a look at screw 'B' for damage. Lurking below this screw is another part with a LH Thread. If a DIY has had a go and damaged this screwhead it might get pretty nasty further in.

The winder is obviously different from the 4. The counter, screw and spring washer are the same on both cameras. 


Self timer zorki 4Self timer:

slotted screw, LH Thread. Again look out for damage here.

This lever and LH Thread screw are also used on the Zenith E


Self timer zorki 4K

Self timer:

remove with a two pronged tool or CAREFULLY with tool of your own. Beware this is a LH Thread and breaks easily. If you see damage to this head you may not be able to remove it without snapping off the spigot.
A decision you'll have to make? If the lever is not parallel to the body someone may well have forced it to the limit and given up.

The lever arm is the same on both cameras.


Take-up spool Film take-up (spool removed)

This mechanism takes a slip-on spool. Or probably better named, falloff and bounce on the floor when you take the back off spool.
Open a Zorki 4 carefully it WILL fall out.



Take-up spool 4K

The 4K take-up spool is fitted, and can be removed if unscrewed. The two systems are not interchangeble.



Take-up zorki 4The small plate 'D' is screwed down from underneath the top plate   Take-up zorki 4KThe drive mechanism is different as you can see at 'D'.  

Back Zorki 4

Well the backs are the same?

I swapped them over to see...I couldn't get the 4K back to shut properly. This was slight but not a light tight fit.


Back Zorki 4KWell the backs are the same?

The 4 back fitted but it was sloppy. A light tight fit?


Well so much for the outside. I think you will agree there are already many differences. In the next section we go 'under the hood.'

preview of coming pages:

Zorki 4 shellThe self-timer is black blued but in all important aspects it appears to be the same as the 4K. The mounting holes are in the same place, as is the activating mechanism and shutter push rod

  Zorki 4K shell


...more coming soon

















 Nikon F photomicNIKON F
  Solution for Photomic meter ftn. Olympus, Leica, Yashica, Pentax, Hassleblad, Gossen and 100's of others.

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 Nikon F photomicNIKON F
  Solution for Photomic meter ftn.
photomic batterynikon f battery contact Use arubber grommet ?
Not on a photomic ftn or cameras that need a metal to metal contact
The top battery makes the + contact on the side of the battery compartment, so the battery casing must touch the side. Also the top must have a 'shelf' for the screw down top.

 Adapter Also fits Zinc Air:

VT675, XL675, AP675, 675HPX 675A, R675ZA, 675AE, L675ZA AC675E, ME9Z, A675, DA675X ZA675, V675AT, DA675H, AC675 7003ZD, PR44, AC675E, V675A B900PA, DA675, 675HPX  PR-675PA, PZA675

Meter reading and results:
The meter is within 0.3stop against my Minolta Dynax meter. I don't know if it would be closer with Mercury batteries...but on a 30 year old meter I doubt it!

*There is no 100% replacement for the PX625 Mercury battery, nor will there ever be. Zinc Air were created to replace them

Also see:
the most comprehensive
article I have seen on this subject by:

Frans de Gruijter
.pdf download

Battery fitted with the 'push on fit' brass adapter. The lower edge of the ring has a bevelled edge for smoother contact in the meter housing.

Battery life:
(3-6months is claimed?)
You just remove the adapter(s) and fit to new ZA675 batteries!
They work out around £3.90 (only around $5 in the US)
for a pack of 6


*My adapter also allows air to pass between batteries. In 6 years no-one has indicated any problems.

"Zinc Air batteries don't last as long as Mercury no matter what you do."
(re-sealing the air holes is a myth)


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Why modify, damage or render your equipment unreliable/unsaleable when you don't need too?
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